Get to know the Sicilian capital through its markets with our Palermo guide.
Want to taste the real Sicily? Start at Palermo’s markets. As you explore the city’s markets, you’ll learn food history and get to meet locals in a way that just doesn’t happen anywhere else in the city.
The true essence of Palermo is best experienced by taking it slow. Stroll without purpose and allow yourself to get lost between market stalls. Enjoy a leisurely lunch, take an afternoon nap, then head out for another meal. The secret to falling in love with Palermo isn’t checking off tourist sites—it’s enjoying the pleasure of being there.
This guide is for market lovers and foodies looking to try fresh local ingredients, eat at unpretentious spots, and simply watch local life unfold with a drink in hand.
Check out this Google Maps list including all the places mentioned in this Palermo guide. Planning a longer trip to Sicily? Click here to read our Catania guide.
Ballaro Market Palermo
The Ballarò Market (Mercato di Ballarò) is the oldest and largest market in the city, spreading from Piazza Casa Professa all the way to Arco di Cutò, an arch over an alleyway under the Palazzo Filangeri-Cutò Baroque-style palace. Despite some changes and the touristification of the market, Ballarò remains the most authentic market in Palermo and is still part of the daily life of many locals to buy fresh produce, meat, fish, spices, prepared meals, street food for a quick lunch and more.
Where: Via Ballarò and the surrounding area
When: Monday – Saturday: 8am-8pm, Sunday: 8am-3pm
What to buy
- Sfincione is a focaccia-like snack and a very popular lunch option in Palermo. The most common version is made with tomato sauce and cheese, but at Forno Storico Pietro Marino (see address below in “Where to eat” list), you can also try the ancient version with ricotta and caramelised onions, which was already made before tomatoes were grown in Italy.
- Stigghiola – grilled skewers of marinated lamb/goat or beef intestines wrapped around a spring onion. For a slightly less intense version, there’s also an option called Mangia e Bevi. It’s pancetta wrapped around a spring onion.
- Caciocavallo cheese – made from sheep’s or cow’s milk, this teardrop-shaped cheese similar to Provolone is widely used in Sicilian dishes and is available in different aged versions.
Market tips
- Aim for mid-morning visits (around 9-10 AM) – early enough to avoid crowds and summer heat, but after vendors have fully set up
- Join a guided market tour for direct interaction with local vendors – we highly recommend Palermo guide Giusi at Eating Europe!
Strolling around the Ballarò Market in Palermo
The Capo Market Palermo
The Capo Market (Mercato del Capo) is a historic outdoor market in Palermo, Sicily. Similarly to the Ballaro Market, Mercato del Capo has changed in recent years and caters more and more to tourists. It’s still worth a visit and has a very authentic Sicilian vibe. The market’s layout, with its maze-like network of streets, maintains the atmosphere of an oriental souk.
Where: Porta Carini, Via Porta Carini, Via Beati Paoli, Via Cappuccinelle
When: Monday-Saturday, 7am-8pm, Wednesday: 7am – 1pm, Sunday: 7am-1pm
What to buy
- Sun-dried tomatoes, pesto, dried pasta, oregano – if you are looking for souvenirs to take home from Sicily, you can’t go wrong with these Sicilian and Italian specialties
- Colourful textiles – throughout the city, including at the Capo Market, you’ll find vendors selling colourful Sicilian textiles. Think bright blue fabrics decorated with vibrant yellow lemons and other Mediterranean motifs. You’ll find fabric by the metre, tote bags, tea towels, hats, t-shirts, and dresses for kids and adults, and more.
The Capo Market, Palermo
Palermo flea market
The Palermo flea market (Mercato delle Pulci) is a permanent fixture with around 25 shed-like shops overflowing with treasures: antiques, vintage items, paintings, ceramics, household goods, jewelry, clothing, lamps, suitcases, furniture, mirrors, books, old toys, and much more.
Born from necessity after WWII, the market began as a place where locals would sell recovered and repaired items simply to survive. Originally located in Piazza Marmi, it was later relocated to its current spot, historically called Papireto by older locals. Vendors initially set up makeshift stalls against chestnut trees, which provided both structural support and shade.
While exploring the market, look for a unique stall marked “museum”. This small museum provides a quiet space within the market where you can simply appreciate objects without buying them. Unlike the surrounding stalls, nothing here is for sale.
Over decades, the market evolved into a popular antique destination for locals and tourists. Keep in mind that some vendors may be closed depending on the weather and tourist seasons.
Where: Piazza Domenico Peranni
When: Monday-Saturday, 9am-5pm, Sunday, 9am-1pm
What to buy
- Decorative pasta plates adorned with vibrant images of pasta, tomatoes, and other colourful scenes from Italian daily life
- Testa Di Moro ceramics – these traditional Sicilian heads are considered lucky to have in your home (even if Season 2 of The White Lotus gave them a more sinister reputation)
- Exquisite antique linens
- Keep your eyes open – you never know what cool stuff you’ll find when you’re not looking for anything specific
Trash or treasure?
Sunday flea market at Giardino Garibaldi
The flea market at Giardino Garibaldi in Palermo runs every Sunday morning. It offers art, furniture, jewellery, books, vintage clothing, and household items sold by local families. Located near the marina, you can find exceptionally good deals such as designer clothing. Come early in the morning as the market is large and gets crowded later.
Where: Piazza Marina
When: Every Sunday, 7am-1pm
Where to eat in Palermo
Food & market tour with Eating Europe This is the most authentic food tour offered in Palermo. Your guide (if you are lucky, you get Giusi as your Palermo guide, but I’m sure the rest of her team are wonderful as well) will take you to sweet and savoury food spots. You’ll sample classics like arancino, sfincione, chickpea fritters and cannoli, but also some more adventurous stuff like grilled skewers of marinated lamb intestines. During this day tour, your guide will pair the snacks with local sodas. These are the same drinks Palermitan children have enjoyed for generations. This inclusion of authentic non-alcoholic beverages can be appreciated by everyone. It adds a unique dimension I’ve never experienced on other food tours!
Bar Morocco Don’t be discouraged by its extremely touristy location just across from the Palermo Cathedral. This spot is frequented by locals for a quick coffee on their way to work or during their lunch break. As is customary in Italy, sitting at the outdoor tables incurs an extra charge, but you can also get your coffee at the counter, just like many locals do. ☕ Must try: the Iris Fritta, a deep-fried pastry filled with ricotta and chocolate.
Casa Stagnitta Another great coffee spot. Next door you can also pick up coffee beans that they roast themselves – these make a great souvenir. 🫘
Forno Storico Pietro Marino The best sfincione bakery in Palermo at the Ballarò market! A masterclass in how simple, high-quality ingredients can create something so perfect. The owner is super kind, and they also make other classics like arancino and pizza. 🥖 Must try: sfincione with ricotta and caramelised onions.
I Segreti del Chiostro This pastry shop inside a monastery is super popular and rightly so. The pastries are made according to ancient recipes by nuns from all over Sicily. 🍰 Must try: the cannoli – the best you’ll ever have and you can enjoy it in a beautiful tiled courtyard – a near-holy experience!
Nino ‘u Ballerino A bit outside of the historic centre, this local spot is THE place to try the famous spleen sandwich served with spleen and grated caciocavallo cheese. It’s served with a slice of lemon, and these few drops oof acidity are very much needed to break through the intense fat. 🍋 Must try: Pani câ meusa/panino con la milza
Bisso Bistrot Cute restaurant by Quattro Canti. Genuine ingredients, just purchased at the market, prepared with simplicity and creativity to enhance their characteristics. The menu changes with the seasons. 🍝 If you are a solo traveler, sit by the counter and order a big plate of pasta and wash it down with a glass of natural wine.
CiCala If you like natural wine and good food, this spot is for you: local, seasonal, and most often organic food and plenty of delicious natural wines. 🍷
The infamous spleen sandwich (Pani câ meusa/panino con la milza) and the nun’s cannoli
Picture perfect
Palermo has SO MANY churches, but if you were only to visit one, make it the Santa Caterina church and monastery. (Chiesa e Monastero di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria – home to the previously mentioned I Segreti del Chiostro pastry shop.) This grand Catholic church features ornate decor and a collection of precious artworks.
With your multi-access ticket (€10), you can view the church, the monastery including the former living quarters of the cloistered nuns, plus go up to the terraces for unparalleled views of the city and the sea. The beautiful tiles alone make this a worthwhile visit – so much interior inspiration, in a church of all places!
The view from atop and the breathtaking fresco inside the Santa Caterina church in Palermo.
For this iconic Palermo market picture, head to the corner of Via Ballaro and Via del Bosco at Ballaro market. This bustling market intersection with the Chiesa del Carmine Maggiore in the background captures the essence of Palermo.
You’ll find this iconic photo spot here 🤫
More Palermo tips
- Edizioni Precarie is a stationery shop where they use food paper used for wrapping meat, fruit, and cheese at the historic markets of Palermo to create one-of-a-kind paper goods such as notebooks, bookmarks, and prints. It’s not only the materials but also the designs that are irresistible. Vintage-style fish, cows, chickens, and fruit make this a stationery lover’s dream.
- Sicily is very touristy, so the best time to visit might just be from January to March. You don’t go there for the weather, but it will often be pleasant enough with around 15°C and sun.
- Stop for coffee often. Anywhere. Sip it at the counter. Watch people and life go by. Savour your time in Sicily – there never seems to be enough of it.
Market paper stationary by Edizioni Precarie & a used book store
Practical info
- The best way to get from the airport to the city (and vice versa) is by train. You can reach the train station at the airport from the arrivals hall. You can purchase tickets in advance using the Trenitalia website or app. Alternatively, tickets are available at the train station from either ticket machines or the manned ticket booth.
- If you are only visiting for few days, it’s best to stay in the historical centre (Centro Storico di Palermo). You know we love markets, but we recommend avoiding accommodations that are right at the market. These areas tend to be a little shady once market vendors pack up for the day and night falls.
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