Get to know the capital of Georgia through its markets with our Tbilisi guide.
It’s no wonder Tbilisi is a true market lover’s dream: historically it’s been on the Silk Road, a network of trade routes connecting Asia, Southern Europe and North Africa. Tbilisi’s markets are a perfect balance of chaos and charm. If you’re a market lover who is looking to sample the best produce at the market, only interested in the places to eat at right NOW, and thinks the best way to experience a city is by sipping coffee at a cute café and watching life go by, our Tbilisi guide was made for you. Besides the best things to do, markets to visit, and places to eat, we’ll also tell you where to get a perfect shot of the city, what to watch and read in anticipation of your trip and some practical tips to reduce travellers’ anxiety.
Dezerter Bazaar
The Dezerter Bazaar is a daily produce market in the heart of Tbilisi, just a few steps from the central train station. It’s the perfect spot to discover a variety of Georgian specialties, including fresh cheese, spices piled high in plastic buckets, and an array of pickled vegetables – the scent is heavenly! You’ll also find stalls with second-hand clothes and shoes, household items, clay pots, and much more. The market welcomes visitors every day from morning until evening.
Where: 5 Abastumani St, Tbilisi, Georgia
When: Monday – Sunday, 7am-6pm
What to buy:
- Churchkhela: Let’s get this one out of the way: those long, colourful, waxy-looking things that you’ll see all over markets and touristy places in Georgia are NOT candles. They are called churchkhela, a local candy originally made with walnuts threaded on a string and dipped in grape juice. Nowadays, they can also be made with other kinds of nuts and fruit juices, which is why you’ll see so many colours beyond the original brown and dark purple versions.
- Vintage clothes: There are several stalls selling second-hand clothes and shoes, and even a large vintage store called Dezerter Vintage, which offers a more curated selection.
- Spices: You can find all the spices you need for Georgian cooking at this market, from blue fenugreek and dried marigold flowers to dried ajika. The spices are sold by weight and usually not labelled, so make sure that you can take them home. (See practical info below.)
Dry Bridge Market
The Dry Bridge Market is an antique, flea, and craft market located in the centre of Tbilisi. As the name suggests, it takes place on a bridge and in the park beneath it. While it’s not primarily a tourist market, it certainly attracts and caters to tourists. Bargaining is acceptable, but don’t overdo it. You’ll find porcelain, jewellery, old Georgian and Soviet books, and all sorts of curiosities. From the bridge, the market extends into the park below. In addition to antique and bric-a-brac vendors, you’ll also find artisans selling handmade crafts, such as paintings, felt toys, wool scarves, clay items, ceramics, and more.
Where: Dry Bridge (Saarbruecken Bridge), 9 March Park, Dedaena park
When: Monday – Sunday, 11am-4pm
What to buy:
- Souvenirs: I bought the cutest little felt khinkali and khachapuri toys. They make for the perfect souvenirs!
- Silver jewellery: There are several jewellery vendors selling both new and second-hand pieces, including some lovely silver items
- Antiques: Though this market doesn’t have a huge selection of vintage and antiques, you never know what treasures you might find! The owner of Tbilisi’s renowned restaurant Barbarestan found an old cookbook by the legendary chef Barbare Jorjadze at this market. This find inspired a complete redesign of the restaurant’s concept, basing their menu on the rediscovered 19th-century recipes. Now, Barbarestan will potentially become Georgia’s first Michelin-starred restaurant, all thanks to a chance encounter at the market.
Navtlughi Farmers’ Market
If you are looking for an authentic Georgian market experience, you must make your way to the Navtlughi farmers’ market in the east of the city. The market is also called the Samgori market as it’s located by the Samgori metro station. The sellers at this market come from the countryside to offer their produce to their customers in the city. Besides beautiful produce, the market also has a flea market section, called Samgori Bazaar.
A word of caution to visitors: this is not the polished, tourist-friendly market you might encounter in other European capitals. Don’t expect shiny tiled floors or vendors wearing gloves. The atmosphere may seem chaotic or even a bit untidy to some, but rest assured, it’s perfectly safe. While the market’s authenticity might be a shock to some, personal safety is not a concern here.
Where: 91 Ketevan Dedofali Avenue, Tbilisi, Georgia
When: Monday – Sunday, 9am – 6pm
What to buy:
- Sunflower oil: Georgian sunflower oil is not the same as the generic varieties found in your local supermarket. It has a characteristic flavour and can be compared to olive oil: it’s perfect for dressing salads or as a dip for fresh bread.
- Flea market finds: at the flea market section you can find everything from second-hand washing machines, old pots piled 2 metres high, ceramics, clothes, shoes and so much more.
- Fresh fruits: Fruits are brought here from the countryside at peak ripeness, so don’t hesitate to try some seasonal fruits
Picture perfect
Besides the obvious Tbilisi spots with great views such as the Metekhi church or the cable car that takes you up to the historic Narikala Fortress, the restaurant terrace at the Castor & Pollux hotel offers not only a stunning view of the city but also the perfect setting to relax with a drink.
The view from the Castor & Pollux hotel during the day and during the night
Where to eat
26.05 This place serves some of the best coffee in Tbilisi. You can also get some cool T-shirts by a Georgian brand that make for the perfect souvenir. ☕
Alubali Right next door to 26.05, this restaurant serves Georgian classics. It’s where I had the best dish of my entire Georgia trip: the fried aubergine with garlic. I also got a glimpse into the kitchen and saw that the cooks are Georgian grandmas – definitely a sign of great food! 🍆
Littera Set in a beautiful old mansion and a lush courtyard in Old Tbilisi, Littera serves modern Georgian dishes and has a great natural wine selection. Must try: the chanterelle mushrooms with caramelised onion. 🍄
Barbarestan Already mentioned above, Barbarestan might become Georgia’s first Michelin-starred restaurant. The service is well-orchestrated and outstanding, and the food can’t be described – it has to be experienced. My favourite dish was the Georgian chicken soup served with noodles. Noodles are not a part of modern Georgian cuisine, but they were made according to the 19th century recipe.
Left: The best aubergine dish I ever had at Alubali. Right: The courtyard at Littera
Where to stay
Rooms Hotel Tbilisi Tbilisi has many affordable places to stay, but if you can splurge a little bit, even if only for a night or two, I would recommend staying at Rooms Hotel. While there are other 5-star properties in the city as well, none of them feel quite as unique or put as much thought into interior design as Rooms. The neighbouring Stamba hotel, owned by the same hotel group, is a bit more luxurious with larger rooms. However, I enjoyed the quaintness of Rooms Hotel more.
More Georgia tips
A cooking class in Tbilisi I didn’t have a tour guide at the market this time. However, I took a cooking class with Irma of Georgian Flavors, learning about Georgian spices and ingredients. As a result, I felt like a pro at the market. We cooked traditional Georgian dishes in her home kitchen, including khachapuri, khinkali, baked chicken in a creamy sauce, and salads with walnut dressing. Irma also introduced me to preserved green walnuts, which she served with a sweet yogurt dessert. This new obsession is something I plan to recreate for Christmas.
A trip to Kazbegi Besides the markets of Tbilisi, perhaps my favourite experience was visiting the Kazbegi mountain region. I stayed at Rooms Hotel Kazbegi, which offers a stunning view of Mount Kazbek. I set an alarm for sunrise and watched as the sun painted the snow-covered peak of Mount Kazbek in the most beautiful pinks and oranges. It was an unforgettable experience!
Winery visits Georgia is the birthplace of wine, and they’ve been making orange wine since ancient times. It’s called amber wine in Georgia. It’s essentially white wine made like red wine, with skin contact. The Georgian twist is that they use clay pots, called qvevri, for fermentation. My two best wine experiences were:
- A visit to Pheasant’s Tears winery, a world-renowned producer of natural wine and an amazing restaurant serving Georgian classics. The aubergine with tahini sauce was my favourite.
- The beautiful Vazisubani Estate, set in a dreamy environment overlooking rolling hills and endless rows of vines. Their Saperavi Georgian red wine is a masterclass in how it should be made. The dessert wine had an explosion of walnut and caramel notes.
The best tour guide in Georgia My entire Georgia tour was organised by Ia, the best tour guide from Georgia. She created the perfect itinerary and took care of everything. Ia is a real tourism professional and has also started a PhD in destination management. Click here to contact Ia!
Left: Making khinkali with Irma of Georgian Flavors. Right: My view of Mount Kazbek at Rooms Hotel Kozbeki.
Practical info
- Before travelling with your market finds, research your country’s (or your next destination’s) food import regulations. Unlabelled items such as herbs, spices, fruit and vegetables, meat products etc. from local markets may cause issues at customs.
- Stray dogs and cats: The most heartbreaking aspect of visiting Georgia is seeing all the stray animals. In Tbilisi, you’ll notice many dogs with ear tags, meaning they’re vaccinated and sterilised. Still, if bitten or scratched, seek medical help immediately. These strays are often fed by volunteers, locals and tourists. But it’s tough seeing them live outdoors, exposed to the elements and sometimes human cruelty. I carried dog food to feed the dogs I met, but only do this if you’re experienced with dogs. If you want to help, consider supporting these local animal charities: Zero Strays Georgia, Tamaz Elizbarashvili Dog Shelter, Dog Organization Georgia.
- Using Bolt, an app similar to Uber, is the best way to get around Tbilisi. I set up an account with my Dutch phone number, contrary to some websites claiming you need a Georgian number. It might be the case if you are from a country where Bolt does not operate. Most trips cost only a few euros, making it very affordable. Keep in mind that during rush hours, traffic can be heavy, potentially affecting travel times and costs.
- Don’t rely too much on Google Maps, it’s not always accurate.
